The Cotswolds attracts American tourists and affluent expats seeking old-world charm.
The area has long been favored by the British aristocracy. Nowadays, it's known as the 'Hamptons of England.'
These photos show how this 800-square-mile area of the English countryside looks during fall.
With its fairytale cottages, quaint shops, and buildings older than the US, it's no wonder Americans are intrigued by, and increasingly flocking to, the Cotswolds.
Long favored by royals, aristocrats, and exhausted Londoners — including myself on many occasions over the years — it embodies country life in Britain and its old-world charm. In recent years, it has become a magnet for American tourists and affluent expats.
Here's what I saw when I spent a few days in the "Hamptons of England," learning how American newcomers and old money are learning to live alongside one another.
Stow-on-the-Wold always feels like a breath of fresh air from the hustle and bustle of London life.
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The townhouses and inns in Stow-on-the-Wold — built using honey-colored local stone — look like they're from a fairytale. They're a far cry from the chaos and crowds of my hometown, London.
The town has held markets since medieval times — but instead of livestock and wool, I saw local dogwalkers and American tourists.
Stow-on-the-Wold, pictured, is one of many historic villages in the Cotswolds.
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Many of the buildings in the market square, including pubs and galleries, are centuries old. The Porch House, a pub and inn, has timbers that have been carbon-dated as more than 1,000 years old.
There is history everywhere you go, especially in the town's church.
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St. Edward's Church, located in the town center, was built in the early medieval periodon the site of a former Saxon church, with additions made in the Victorian era.
Inside, a 17th-century painting depicting the crucifixion has hung in the church for almost 200 years.
The building itself is one of 98 Grade I listed buildings in the Cotswolds, meaning that it's considered to be of exceptional historic interest.
The church's north door, thought to have partly inspired "The Lord of the Rings," is one of many reason the town feels magical.
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It is believed to have been J.R.R. Tolkien's inspiration for the "Doors of Durin."
Whether or not it was, the yew trees flanking the door are a sight to behold. Tourists love posing in front of it: The Stow and District Civic Society, a local historical preservation group, calls it the "most photographed door in the Cotswolds."
I briefly met a Texan family, all of whom were dressed impeccably, head-to-toe in tweed, and were excited to get a photograph taken by the door.
Stow-on-the-Wold has upmarket stores and quaint tea rooms. I treated myself to some delicious fudge.
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Around the market square, and down narrow stone lanes, you'll find fancy boutiques selling everything from antique furniture to the essentials for the classic Cotswolds look: gilets, tweed, and Barbour jackets.
I didn't buy any of the more expensive items, but I did try some vegan vanilla fudge from a small fudge store. It was so good that I went back for more the next day.
About 10 miles away from Stow is Burford, known as the 'gateway' to the Cotswolds. It's cosmopolitan — and very hilly.
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High on a hill with views of the River Windrush, the Oxfordshire town of Burford is having a renaissance. While lunch used to be mostly stodgy pub food,now, places like the Bull offer fine dining with a modern feel in the historic town.
As well as remarkable views of the countryside, I learned the hard way that its position on a hilltop means getting from one end of the high street to the other requires a steady climb.
I visited an adorably old-fashioned sweet shop, one of many family-owned businesses in Burford.
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Walking into the Sweet Shop in Burford is like stepping into a British time capsule. Jars of boiled sweets, packets of fudge, and other quintessentially British offerings, like lemon sherbet, line its walls.
It's run by the O'Brian family. When I visited, Lauren O'Brian was behind the counter with her daughter, who was helping out after school.
I loved Burford's unusual mix of stores — including a bookshop that sold hats.
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The Madhatter Bookshop in Burford is dimly lit, with intriguing displays of hats sold alongside the books. I never say no to a bookshop browse, and I loved the "dark academia" feel of this one. It felt cozy and the perfect place to spend a fall afternoon.
A few doors down on Burford's main street, I peeked into The Oxford Brush Company, a store entirely dedicated to bristle brushes and brooms. This eclectic mix of independent stores is offset by a chain supermarket.
I stumbled upon a patisserie run by a Michelin-trained pastry chef, where everything looked almost too pretty to eat.
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The Hugo Lovage Patisserie, also located in Burford, sells luxury pastries to visitors, locals, and, according to its owner Cindy Kosmala, celebrities, too.
The macarons, eclairs, and cakes looked like miniature pieces of art, and tourists wandered in and out to photograph the items on display.
I drove to Daylesford Organic Farmshop, near Moreton-in-Marsh. I'd describe it as the 'Erewhon' of the Cotswolds.
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If Erewhon is the most upscale and luxurious place to buy your groceries in Los Angeles, then Daylesford Organic Farmshop is the Cotswolds' equivalent.
It sells organic food and rustic home goods, such as sheepskin throws, caviar, tweed dog blankets. I didn't fancy spending £650 ($861) on a quilt, or £45 on a beef and stilton pie.
Its restaurant was one of the first in the UK to be recognized with a Michelin Guide Green Michelin Star, back in 2021.
It's where locals go to buy caviar and magnums of champagne. I usually just go to people-watch.
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The deli counters serve fresh fish, colorful salads, and caviar. The shelves are lined with beautiful packaged condiments, such as a £16.50 organic hot sauce. The drinks section sells magnums of rosé wine — one bottle I saw cost £227.
In my few visits over the years, I've rarely bought anything. I just watch well-dressed people browsing and take in the extravagance of the place.
You can get red light therapy, cryotherapy, and other LA-esque treatments at Daylesford's Bamford Wellness Spa. They've done a great job at perfecting the 'countryside-chic' aesthetic.
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The Club by Bamford and the connected Bamford Wellness Spa are where rural life meets LA wellness trends. There are reformer Pilates classes, $300 massages, and everything from sound healing treatments to cryotherapy. The bonfire outdoors and the converted barn gave the place a rustic but fashionable feel.
A few miles away is Diddly Squat Farm, one of the 'Clarkson's Farm' sites that has become a draw for American tourists. I wasn't impressed.
The Diddly Squat Farm Shop in the Cotswolds.
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Diddly Squat Farm, with its long lines for the farmshop, and the Farmer's Dog, are tourist hot spots. I visited both, and left disappointed. Some companies offer tours of the sites, which provide a window into the show, as well as the history of farming in the Cotswolds.
The Cotswolds may be dubbed the "Hamptons of England" — but, in many ways, it feels quintessentially British.
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While the comparisons between the Cotswolds and the Hamptons are easy to make, with their luxury shops, high-end spas, celebrity residents, and proximity to a big city, the Cotswolds are very much their own place.
There are centuries of history on nearly every corner, and the kind of charming British traditions you won't find on the eastern end of Long Island, be that having scones with clotted cream made at a local farm or cozying up in a pub with a cider brewed in the Cotswolds.
This wasn't my first time visiting, and it certainly won't be my last.
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